In September 2025, we packed our hiking gear and a tent, to set off to cross Madeira from west to east, starting near Porto Moniz and making our way towards Machico.
Our route covered roughly 110 km over 8 days, with plenty of elevation gain along the way, following trails, levadas, and mountain passes that reveal the wild heart of the island.
There’s a special kind of adventure that comes with crossing an island entirely on foot – when every step takes you closer to the sea, the mountains, and yourself.
We chose to do the crossing as a multi-day hiking adventure, carrying our camping gear and combining nights in designated campsites with a few stays in local guesthouses, hotels and 1 mountain refuge. It wasn’t meant to be a perfectly comfortable trip, nor a race to get from one side of the island to the other. We wanted to experience Madeira slowly, on foot, and let the landscape dictate the rhythm of our days.
Important: Madeira hiking and camping reservations
But there is something important you should know before planning a similar adventure: hiking and camping in Madeira require some advance planning.
When we crossed Madeira in September 2025, we booked all of our campsites in advance. This was something we took seriously because camping in designated forest areas requires prior authorisation, and availability can be limited. We actually met other hikers on the trails who were checked to make sure they had the necessary camping reservation.
For accommodation, things were a little more relaxed. When we stayed in hotels or guesthouses, we sometimes booked on the same day, depending on availability, and this didn’t cause us any particular stress. But if you are planning to camp your way across Madeira, I would strongly recommend organising your camping reservations before arriving on the island.
The rules for hiking the official classified trails have also changed since our trip.
In 2025, when we did our crossing, we paid the required access fees for the trails and levadas we hiked shortly before starting them. From 1 January 2026, Madeira introduced a new reservation system for classified walking routes (PR trails). Visitors must now make a reservation through the official SIMplifica portal, choose an available entry time slot and pay the applicable fee in advance. The current system uses 30-minute entry slots.
This applies to classified PR trails, including popular routes such as PR6 – Levada das 25 Fontes and other well-known mountain and levada routes. The official Madeira Tourism Board recommends checking the current status and booking requirements for your chosen trail before setting out, as trail conditions and access rules can change.
You can make your trail reservations through the official Madeira Government SIMplifica portal:
SIMplifica – Madeira official hiking reservations
Planning a Madeira hiking trip in 2026 or later? Don’t rely on information from older blogs or trip reports. The reservation system has changed, so always check the current rules for your specific trail before your hike.
When is the best time to hike in Madeira?
There isn’t really one perfect month for hiking in Madeira. Thanks to its subtropical climate, hiking is possible throughout much of the year, but conditions can change dramatically between the coast and the mountains – sometimes within the same day. Higher elevations can be considerably cooler, with fog, wind and rain appearing even when the coast is warm and sunny.
For our island crossing, we chose September, and it turned out to be a great time for a long-distance hiking adventure. Summer is still lingering, temperatures are generally pleasant, daylight is still generous, and the island begins to feel a little quieter than during the busiest summer period. September and October are also among the months that the Madeira Tourism Board describes as having plenty of pleasant days for exploring.
Of course, Madeira’s weather has a personality of its own. And on a multi-day crossing, you quickly learn that checking the forecast for the island isn’t enough – you need to pay attention to the mountains, altitude and the different microclimates along your route.
Why cross Madeira on foot?
I had known for a while that Madeira could be crossed on foot. The idea came from the legendary MIUT – Madeira Island Ultra Trail, a race that traverses the island through its most rugged and spectacular terrain. Long before booking the trip, I had also read about the devastating wildfires that struck the island in 2024, burning large sections of forest and forcing the closure of many trails, especially in the central mountains.
So when Madeira slowly turned from an idea into a real plan, I already knew one thing: we wouldn’t be able to follow the original MIUT route. Parts of it were still inaccessible. The crossing, if possible, would look different. It would require adjustments, detours, and a willingness to accept uncertainty.
But maybe that was exactly what made it more meaningful.
We spent weeks studying maps, reading recent trail reports, and learning from other hikers who had attempted their own crossings after the fires. Piece by piece, a route began to take shape.
From Porto Moniz to Machico, we crossed forests and mountains, followed old paths and levadas, climbed through Madeira’s rugged interior and eventually descended towards the eastern coast.
This is the story of that journey – how we planned our Madeira island crossing, the route we followed, where we stayed, what surprised us, what we would do differently, and what you should know if you’re thinking about hiking across Madeira yourself.
Before I get into this, just a general disclaimer that I did my best to put together all of the information I learned/found to the best of my ability. It is, to my knowledge, accurate as of September 2025 when we completed this hike.
Day 0 – Arrival in Madeira
The landing – famous for its drama – was gentler than expected, just a few bumps before touching down. Locals call today a calm summer day, and we’ll happily take that as a welcome gift.
Because we knew that after finishing the crossing we would stay a few more days to explore Madeira, we had to solve one important problem first: what to do with the extra luggage. Carrying it across the island was out of the question. That’s how we found Keep It Safe 24/7 Madeira, a small local service that felt like exactly what we needed. They even offered to pick up our bags directly from the airport — which was perfect, because it meant we could avoid going all the way to Funchal just for this.
We met Marcos outside the terminal, handed over our backpacks, and with that simple gesture, the crossing suddenly felt real. Everything we didn’t need stayed behind. Everything that mattered, we carried with us.
After our first proper Madeiran lunch — the kind that slows you down and reminds you you’ve arrived somewhere new — we waited for our transfer. Soon, we were on the road, leaving the busy south coast behind and heading toward the island’s wild northwestern edge: Porto Moniz, the true beginning of our journey across Madeira.
Imagine arriving, dropping your bags, and suddenly finding yourself in a village surrounded by cliffs, lush green slopes, and the endless Atlantic.
We wandered the village streets, admired the colorful houses tucked into the green slopes, let the Atlantic wind play with our hair, and raised our first ponchas to the journey ahead.
Accommodation: Euro Hotel, Porto Moniz .
Day 1 – Porto Moniz → Ribeira de Janela → Fanal Forest → Ribeiro do Alecrim
Distance: 24.1 km | Elevation gain: +1,700 m
Trails: PR 15, PR 14, PR 6
When your hiking app sends you straight into a canyon, at the end of a long day… and the only option left is climbing above it, in the dark.
We started the crossing with a taxi ride from Porto Moniz, dropped just above Ribeira da Janela where PR15 begins. From the very first steps, Madeira pulled us into a jungle of giant fern trees, mossy trunks, and a green so alive it almost glowed.
The trail led us past a levada and straight into the mystical Fanal Forest. A thick fog rolled through, cloaking the twisted trees in mystery. We stayed nearly an hour, and just as we thought we’d only see it in mist, the sun broke through – gifting us both versions of its magic.
From there, PR13 carried us across an open plateau of tree heather and conifers, before a steep descent to the 25 Fontes levada. Our legs were shaking, but the scenery was worth it. By the time we reached Rabaçal House, the sun was already dropping, and so was our energy.
The Komoot app promised us a route towards the campsite (Ribeiro do Alecrim) via a canyon and Dona Beja pool… but reality had other plans. Instead of a crossing, we were met with vertical rocky walls .
Darkness finally caught us at the canyon. Confused, exhausted but relieved, we stumbled upon a flat patch of ground and pitched the tent right there. No official campsite – but a wild first night on Madeira.
Day 1 was long, intense, and chaotic at times, but unforgettable. The kind of start that sets the tone for an epic crossing .
Day 2 – Ribeira do Alecrim → São Vicente
Distance: 20 km | Elevation gain: +347 m
We woke up at the unexpected spot we had found the night before – and it turned out to be a pretty amazing one, with a great viewpoint to start the day. Breakfast? Just a handful of nuts (that’s all we had left ). Then we packed the tent and headed back on the trail.
In daylight, the mystery from last night was finally revealed: the Komoot app had led us straight into Dona Beja pool, where in the morning we found people canyoning with ropes and helmets. Watching them made us laugh – we had stumbled into that same spot in complete darkness the night before, backpacks and all.
Soon we were back on track. About an hour later, we reached the actual Ribeiro do Alecrim campsite (the one I had booked in advance). From there, things got better: a stop at a small restaurant for delicious empanadas, plus sandwiches to go.
Originally, we had planned to continue through the dramatic levadas of Ribeira do Inferno and Ribeira do Norte – with tunnels and narrow paths. But carrying heavy packs (mine was ~15 kg) would have made it too risky. So we changed plans: the idea was to descend towards São Vicente, stock up on food, then grab a taxi to Chão dos Louros campsite.
Reality? After 30 minutes of waiting, no taxi wanted to take us.
I called a hotel in São Vicente and booked a room – ten minutes later, we were on our way.
So Day 2 ended not in a tent, but in a cozy hotel room in São Vicente – showered, laundry done, full stomachs, and a perfect sunset by the ocean.
Accomodation: Hotel Estalagem do Mar.
Day 3 – São Vicente → Boca das Voltas (via Boaventura)
Distance: 5.83 km | Elevation gain: +744 m
After a night of deep sleep in our cozy hotel bed and a delicious breakfast, we hopped in a taxi to Boaventura village – skipping the road climb from São Vicente and saving our energy for the trail ahead. A quick stop for lunch (a traditional beef sandwich in bolo do caco bread) fueled us for the hike to Boca das Voltas.
We started by wandering through the village’s charming hidden alleys, before the trail pulled us straight into Madeira’s wild side. The forest was lush, green, and dense – so dense that at times it felt like nature had completely swallowed the path. It was narrow, quiet, and untouched. We only met two other hikers in the entire ascent, which made the experience feel even more raw and authentic.
By late afternoon we reached the campsite: an open clearing with breathtaking views over Boaventura and the ocean. Setting up the tent there felt magical. At night, the waves crashing in the distance were our soundtrack, while the Milky Way stretched clear and bright above us.
We shared stories and dinner with two fellow hikers from Slovenia who were also crossing the island. Slowly, more tents appeared, filling the space with travelers from around the world. It turned into one of those evenings where strangers feel like old friends – united by the trail, the mountains, and the stars.
Another perfect day of adventure: humid, sweaty, wild, and unforgettable. Madeira keeps surprising us at every step.
Day 4 – Boca das Voltas → Santana
Distance: 11.83 km | Elevation gain: +156 m
We woke up in Boca das Voltas campground, after one of those nights that you’ll always remember – not because it was cold or uncomfortable, but because of one very determined cricket who decided to perform a solo concert right next to our tent around 1 AM.
The morning was peaceful, everyone still tucked in their tents while the first light touched the mountains. We took our time – a simple breakfast of cereal bars, nuts, slow packing, and then back on the trail towards Santana.
Somewhere along the way, we decided to add a detour: Levada do Rei (PR18). A lush, green tunnel of ferns, wildflowers, and birdsong — exactly the kind of path that makes Madeira feel like a living garden. At the end of the levada, we found a cozy restaurant and treated ourselves to a well-deserved local feast (because how could we not?).
From there, things got… interesting. The “path” to São Jorge turned into a mix of gardens, backyards, and random alleys. No real trail, just us, the heat, and a lot of laughter trying to find our way. After 12 km and way too much humidity, we called a taxi for the last stretch – best decision ever.
We ended the day clean, rested, with full bellies and that sweet satisfaction of a day well lived. Laundry drying by the window, golden light spilling into the room, and the ocean shimmering in the distance – the perfect ending to another beautiful day in Madeira.
Accommodation: Santana Inn Nature.
Day 5 – Santana → Pico das Pedras
Distance: 6 km | Elevation gain: +450 m
After days of long treks, today felt like a gentle pause – a short, easy climb that gave us time to simply enjoy being there.
We started right from the charming village of Santana, walking past colorful houses, small gardens, and curious goats grazing between hydrangeas. These last glimpses of village life felt like a quiet goodbye before stepping back into Madeira’s wild side.
Soon, the cobbled path led us up into the familiar forest – that lush, green world we’d grown to love. A jeep full of tourists passed by, then silence again, broken only by the soft trickle of water from yet another hidden levada. It’s incredible how these irrigation channels weave through every corner of the island, a living symbol of human harmony with nature.
By early afternoon, we reached Pico das Pedras campsite, tucked among tall trees and soft light filtering through the canopy. A peaceful spot with running water, a few picnic tables, and plenty of space for tents. We set up camp, cooked dinner, and watched other hikers arrive one by one, their voices blending with the evening forest sounds.
It wasn’t a big day in distance or elevation, but that’s okay. Some days are meant to be slower – to give yourself time to process everything you’ve experienced so far, to let the adventure sink in, and to get ready for what’s next.
Day 6 – Pico das Pedras → Pico Ruivo (Achada do Teixeira)
Distance: 12,7 km | Elevation gain: +1,075 m
How we ended up being the only ones on top of the island, at sunset.
The night at Pico das Pedras campsite was calm and cozy, with the quiet hum of the forest. Around 5 AM, the peace broke as cars started rushing up the road towards Pico Ruivo for sunrise. Crazy how social media shapes travel nowadays. We rolled over and decided to enjoy a few more hours of sleep instead.
By 8, we slowly started packing up. The plan for the day was simple: reach Achada do Teixeira refuge – where we had a room booked – and, if the weather and energy allowed, hike up to the highest peak of the island, Pico Ruivo.
The first part of the trail was easy and peaceful, following a flat levada towards Queimadas Forest Park. That charming little house you see in photos? It’s even prettier in real life. We stopped there for a late breakfast and some queijadas – my favorite dessert from Madeira. Soft, sweet, and perfect before the climb.
From there, the trail started to rise – about 4.5 km with 700 meters of elevation gain. It was a winding, sometimes steep climb through layers of forest, changing vegetation, and moody clouds. We knew we were close when the smell of food started drifting through the air – the best motivation ever.
We arrived at the refuge just in time – both for lunch and the rain that followed. Within half an hour, the sky opened up and it poured for most of the afternoon. We didn’t mind at all. We had warm food, a hot shower, and a cozy place to rest. The staff here were incredibly friendly, and honestly, this spot deserves a stop – even if it’s just for their delicious dishes and desserts.
Dinner came a bit late, and we were almost ready to skip the sunset hike. But we decided to go for it anyway – a quick, power hike to Pico Ruivo. We made it just ten minutes before sunset… and we couldn’t believe it: we had the entire peak to ourselves. Alone, on top of the island.
We descended in the dark, tired but glowing inside. Back at the refuge, fell asleep with that quiet joy that only adventure days like this bring.
Accommodation: Achada do Teixeira Refuge.
Day 7 – Achada do Teixeira → Chão das Feiteiras
Distance: 18,19 km | Elevation gain: +1,160 m
After one of the best nights of sleep on the entire trip, we woke up just in time for a quick photo session and a delicious breakfast. The plan for the day was quite ambitious – so we decided to shorten it a bit by taking a taxi from Achada do Teixeira refuge back to Queimadas Park.
With a coffee and a small snack in hand, our hike began. The trail wound through small villages, endless ups and downs, and fields where locals were working quietly in the morning sun. These are the parts of Madeira that most people never see – the raw, authentic, and beautifully underrated side of the island.
At first, the weather was on our side. Then came the clouds – thick, humid, and heavy. We were sweating like crazy on those steep climbs, but the views and the rhythm of the villages kept us going.
By the time we reached Bar Zeca, we were starving. We sat down for what turned into a late lunch / early dinner – a traditional beef sandwich with bolo do caco bread (and yes, we ordered extras to go). As we ate, fog started rolling in, wrapping everything in that mysterious Madeiran mood.
We still had a few kilometers ahead, so we continued toward Ribeiro Frio. We passed by the famous viewpoint of Vereda dos Balcões – but with the thick fog, we decided to skip it and save it for next time. The road kept climbing, our legs protesting, but the thought of the campsite kept us moving.
By the time we reached Chão das Feiteiras, the fog was so thick you could almost touch it. The campsite sits on a small plateau surrounded by pines, with nothing but running water – and that night, the sound of rain. Locals were gathered, celebrating something unknown, music echoing through the mist.
We pitched our tent just in time – about 30 minutes later, the rain began. And as soon as it started falling, the music stopped, and people began to leave. Silence took over the forest.
We fell asleep listening to the steady sound of rain on the tent – 19 km and 1200 m of elevation behind us, another wild Madeiran day complete.
Day 8 – Chão das Feiteiras → Portela → Machico
Distance: 11 km | Elevation gain: +40 m
Trail: Vereda do Larano
It rained gently all night, leading us to believe that starting Day 8 of the crossing in the rain wouldn’t be too bad, provided we safely reached our next destination—a wild camping spot on the coast at Boca do Risco.
We packed our tent, and just as we were ready to start hiking, it began pouring – it felt like we had stepped into the shower.
We followed the levadas toward Portela, surrounded by mist and the sound of rushing water. Streams were flowing from everywhere, waterfalls formed above the trail, and the levada path turned into a mini river. It was wild, raw, and honestly… pretty amazing to experience Madeira under heavy rain.
After about 4 hours of hiking in non-stop rain, we reached Portela – soaked, starving, and dreaming of warm food. But the only restaurant was packed, and we’d have had to wait an hour for a table. So, plan B: we booked a taxi and a hotel in Machico, since the forecast showed more rain ahead.
That was kind of the end of our crossing – a bit abruptly, since the original plan was to continue to Boca do Risco and finish by foot on the coast the next day. But after drying off, showering, and enjoying some delicious Madeiran dishes in Machico, it felt like the perfect ending anyway.
Because sometimes, the adventure ends differently than planned – and that’s exactly what keeps it real.
Accommodation: Hotel Dom Pedro Madeira
